An Adventure on Scrub Island

Original Post: MailChimp Fall 2021

This is a post I transferred from my old newsletter platform to Substack so that it is not lost. My apologies if you have read it before or if it did not come over clean. For those of you who missed it, I hope you enjoy it!

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It's sunrise at the Island Harbour dock and we witness a calm on the water that has been present for two days. Some would call it the doldrums - harkening back to the days of the fictional character, Captain Jack Sparrow. Scientists would say we are being impacted by the realities of Mother Nature and the hurricane systems that swirl around us. Either way, it is a surreal and stunning morning in Anguilla.

Today we are fortunate to embark on a journey to Scrub Island Important Bird Area (IBA) aboard the fishing boat, Opportunity. She is Captained by Patrick Webster and his first mate and brother, Vernon. Over the last few days, they identified large flocks of birds on Scrub and thought I would enjoy the opportunity to do a count. This aligns perfectly with the first day of the Global Shorebird Count.

Their goal for the day is to catch as many Red Snapper as possible. They have come armed with enough bait to sink a ship in my estimation. Clearly, this is not my area of expertise, so I simply observe. Vernon can't miss the opportunity to catch more at the dock or upon arrival at Scrub. He is a master at the task with mad skill, as they say.

As we reach the south side of Scrub Island, a visible swell heading into the beach gives this old girl pause. But never fear, I am hauled off the boat and placed safely on the shore like a tuna. Thankfully there are no photos of that special moment!

The Opportunity continues the quest for bait as I am greeted with what seems like never-ending turtle tracks and bird prints in the sand. Judging from the varied tracks, this uninhabited outpost is the nesting habitat for several species of endangered sea turtles. Two Brown Pelicans enjoying a quiet morning on the beach are incensed by my intrusion and fly off in search of their own bait fish.

That leaves me with the solitude of Scrub Island and its treasures. I head for Dead Man's Bay and the two ponds directly behind it, where I am told the "moss" has filled the ponds and birds are plentiful.

The first thing I encounter is the crashed airplane that is part of a long-ago drug deal gone bad. No matter how many times I see the wreckage, it never ceases to amaze me that it is still sitting there having weathered numerous hurricanes and the brutal daily sun.

Despite its stark beauty, Scrub can be an unforgiving place. The plane is surrounded by the vegetation that envelops it, including some stunning agave plants now showing their towering flower stalks.

Onward I push toward the ponds and Dead Man's Bay. There is a small pond just off the path. It's mostly dry at this time of year, but a puddle in the middle plays host to a small number of Least and Semipalmated Sandpipers. They feed steadily paying me no attention.

Just beyond the path is the main pond adjacent to Dead Man’s Bay, which is filled with birds. There I find Opportunity anchored with Patrick and Vernon fishing off the rocks.

The Sargassum has indeed made its way into the pond with a very strong buildup along the shoreline. This does not seem to deter the hundreds of gulls and terns resting and feeding on the sand spits. Their raucous chanting is heightened by a pair of Magnificent Frigatebirds making diving runs in search of fish. Juvenile birds are not thrilled that these marauders are stealing their breakfast. The invasion sends all of the birds flying only to eventually settle back into their original spots. They seem oblivious to my presence.

Among the crowd are a few migrant and resident shorebirds going about their business. Of note is the stunning Black-bellied Plover just beginning to shed its breeding plumage. Ruddy Turnstone males show off their colors while Wilson's Plovers pick out prey from the decaying Sargassum. The first signs of returning Barn Swallows buzz overhead, while an adult and juvenile Yellow-crowned Night Heron lurk in the mangrove.

Fish of all varieties are plentiful in the pond, explaining the attraction that so many species have to this area. A variety of mangrove plants in the pond system provide excellent breeding grounds for both fish and crabs.

The Red Mangrove is heavy with flowers and propagules, meaning there is a good chance for new plants to replace the losses caused by Hurricane Irma.

Suddenly my phone rings, startling me out of my thoughts. Who knew that would work out here? It is Patrick checking in, and setting a plan to meet at Scrub Bay on the western side of the island. This means a trek back to my gear and then a hike to the other side. It's an excellent opportunity to survey the western pond behind the beach at Scrub Bay.

As I make my way back, I am conscious of the ruins of an earlier life on Scrub Island. These intrepid settlers most certainly had a difficult existence among the thorny bush and cacti that dot the landscape. In stark contrast, are the wild Frangipani in full bloom and a random field of yellow flowers where a pair of Green-throated Carib Hummingbirds happily feed on the nectar.

As I reach the pond, I am greeted by a flock of White-cheeked pintails and a variety of shorebirds. A Green Heron roosts in a fallen tree along the shore. Water levels here are much higher, providing sustenance for these species.

As I scale the dune to reach the bay where my chariot awaits, more Barn Swallows swarm over my head making sure to be included in the count.

On Scrub Bay, I am once again overwhelmed by the number of turtle tracks. The shoreline has banked up at least 8 feet and one has to wonder how these aquatic animals make their way up the dunes to lay. It is clearly a testament to their instinct and will to continue their species. In a few weeks, this island will be bustling with tiny hatchlings making their way to the sea for the first time. An event that will most likely not be recorded by any human.

Soon it was time to assume my "tuna" position and return to Opportunity for the journey home. After five-plus hours exploring Scrub alone, I am exhausted and exhilarated at the same time.

But what of our fishermen? By all accounts, it was a successful day for Patrick and Vernon, with a cooler of beautiful Snapper snuggled into the bottom of the boat. This is a much better outcome than previous days when the "snappers did not bite." It is a fresh reminder of the struggles that these men go through on a daily basis. Some days it is a feast, and others famine. It is important to keep in mind that without them, our restaurants would not be able to provide the amazing meals that have given Anguilla its reputation as one of the premier culinary destinations in the Caribbean. These guys take all the risk for little gain. It is their passion for the sea and fishing, that drives them to set off before the sun rises in a search for the catch of the day.

I feel lucky to have spent the day with these two amazing gentlemen who contribute so much to what makes Anguilla special, and who provided me with a stunning offshore adventure I will never forget!